Monthly Archives: July 2011

T-Shirt Design: Freezer Paper Stencils

Materials: T-shirt; textile paint; sponge brush; freezer paper; x-acto knife, cutting mat, and straight edge (helpful but not necessary)

As I mentioned in the last post, when the boys began talking about what they wanted to print on t-shirts, I thought perhaps scratch-foam printing–which prints in reverse, with a block of color surrounding the scratched image in white (see our examples here)–wasn’t the best way to go. I suggested perhaps we think about using stencils. They agreed. Come along and follow their design process!

First, they made sketches.

V has been reading lots of comics/graphic novels lately, and he wasn’t sure if he wanted the Captain America symbol or that of Green Lantern. N wanted to go with his custom “Super N—” symbol, an N in a circle. V eventually decided to start with Green Lantern as it’s simpler, with only one color, and N decided upon a yellow N in a red circle, which was still only one color because he’d chosen a yellow t-shirt.

Next we turned their sketches into larger, neater versions, still on regular paper.

After figuring out how large of a logo he wanted, V made his circles using a compass, then added in the lines at the top and bottom with a ruler. He compared it to the actual logo, consulted with his dad, and adjusted the lines a bit so they overlapped the circle more. Then we darkened it up, traced it onto the freezer paper, and I cut it out with the x-acto knife.

I helped N a bit more. We lay a sheet of paper over his shirt so he could show me how large the circle should be, and then I drew the finished circle with the compass. Together we sketched out the N, then neatened it up with the ruler. When all looked well, I traced his image and cut it out.

There are many tutorials online for using freezer paper stencils, and it’s very simple. The shiny side irons right onto the shirt. I slid a piece inside the shirt, too, so no paint would run through to the back. Then it’s time to paint.

Here’s N’s shirt, drying. You leave the stencils on until the paint is dry.

When the paint was dry, the boys and I peeled off the stencils together. So exciting!

V was pleased.

So was N.

We used Speedball Textile Screen Printing Ink, so I set the image with the iron as instructed. I laundered them inside out with no problems. They haven’t worn them yet because they both have art camp this week, and they don’t want to get any paint on their new shirts. Typically up until this point, when the kids have had something specific in mind (like, oh, a reversible fireman-spaceman knit winter hat), I’ve figured out the design and made it. How satisfying for them to go from their own sketch to finished product, with just minimal assistance.

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What have your kids been designing recently?

Scratch Foam-Printed T-Shirt

Materials: T-shirt, scratch foam, textile paint (or liquid acrylics); brayer or foam paint brush

After we made prints with scratch foam, I had the idea in the back of my head that it would be cool to make t-shirts with that method. When the boys began talking about their ideas for shirts, though, it became clear that their ideas were better suited to a different technique–so I’ll talk about their shirts in the next post. Meanwhile, G wanted an orange butterfly on a yellow shirt. On the one hand, I always, always want my kids to reach for their vision themselves–if they’re making the t-shirt, then they should make the t-shirt. On the other hand, I didn’t want G to be disappointed if she didn’t end up with a butterfly.

After thinking it over, I asked her what she thought about this: I could cut a butterfly shape out of scratch foam, and she could draw on the inside to add the decorations. She agreed to that, so after consulting her on how big the butterfly should be, we got to work.

My camera had a hard time figuring out what to focus on, with that white butterfly against the white table! But here, G is scratching into the cut-out foam butterfly. She started with a bone folder and a wooden tool for sculpting clay. Then we went hunting around the house and came back with a comb and a boomerang. She also tried a toothpick. She worked on the foam for quite a while–close to a half hour, maybe?–making her marks.

Then we set the butterfly aside and mixed the paint. We used Speedball textile paint, but liquid acrylics would work as well (and don’t require heat setting with the iron). Our set has red, yellow, blue, green, black, and white–but no orange. So we mixed some.

Mixing paint colors is just a delight, isn’t it? “Orange!” exclaimed G. We adjusted until she was happy with the color.

I protected the inside of the shirt with some freezer paper–I just placed it inside, no need to iron it on–so that the paint didn’t bleed to the back of the shirt. Then we rolled the brayer and inked the plate. Except I’ve been having trouble with both my brayers this week–they roll just fine on some surfaces but not others, and the combination of the textile ink and the foam wasn’t working too well. (Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be?) So the paint more smeared than anything, and G used a foam paintbrush to even it out–so you can see some brush marks in the finished print (as always, you can click to embiggen the photos a bit).

I don’t have pictures of the actual printing, because I was helping. You don’t want the paint to be too thick, because then it will smoosh. Pick up the plate, place it paint-side down on the shirt, and gently but firmly smooth down the back. I placed the plate, but G helped with the pressing. “I want to see what happened,” she said. When it comes to printmaking, the reveal is always so much fun.

An orange butterfly on a yellow shirt–a collaboration that quite pleased the not-quite-three-year-old.

This project is easy–just remember that anytime you’re painting or printing on textiles, the paint won’t wash out of the clothes you’re wearing, either. I keep wet wipes handy, too, since any paint on fingers will transfer to the shirt you’re making. I haven’t quite made up my mind, but I think plain old liquid acrylics might be even better for this kind of printing on shirts (that’s what we’ve used in the past for making fish prints on shirts–with fish replicas). So don’t feel like you need special supplies–a plain t-shirt, some scratch foam (or a new Styrofoam meat or vegetable tray), a 59-cent bottle of paint and a foam paintbrush, and you’re ready to create some wearable art!

Summer Sunflowers

My husband brought home this beautiful bouquet of sunflowers, and my kids immediately wanted to know when they could paint them. So we did. We had a new package of Liquetex Basic Acrylic paints, so we decided to try them out. I recently bought them for V, because he’s always asking to use the liquid acrylics, and I wanted to get him something better and designed more for painting larger surfaces. But of course, you can set up a flower study with any materials–we drew sunflowers in the fall using dry media.

I wouldn’t recommend these paints for toddlers, but we let G try them out because she’s the third child and she insists upon it. (She’d already painted earlier that morning with liquid watercolors.) She didn’t stay the whole time, though; I sent her upstairs for some one-on-one daddy time after all her paint was gone.

Because our acrylic set came with red, yellow, blue, black, and white, this turned into a great experiential lesson on mixing colors and tints and shades.

I really enjoy mixing paint colors, myself. I think V is moving along the continuum from feeling limited by only having primaries, to feeling completely open. N already loves mixing colors and tells me with just the primaries, he can make whatever he wants. (True!) It helps to have good quality paint, too, that mixes well. We all enjoyed mixing to get the right green for the stems and the orangey gold for the petals.

I really enjoy the energy in both boys’ paintings–instead of trying for each petal individually, they made swirls of color for the flowers. The overall effect is quite close to the vase of sunflowers.

So we are learning the language of a new paint as well as exploring color mixing and practicing translating what we see onto the paper–all because my husband brought me flowers. (I kept the chocolate to myself, though!)

DIY: Two-Layer, Drawstring, Perfect Summer Skirt

(Originally published at Salamander Dreams in July 2011.)

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(You can also download a PDF of this tutorial here. Please email me with any questions at amyhood at amyhoodarts dot com.)

This is an A-line skirt with two layers, a casing at the top, and a drawstring closure. It seems like a long tutorial, but that’s because I include how to sew a buttonhole by hand. You’ll draft a simple pattern according to your measurements. I used voile, which makes for a light, flowy skirt. So if you use something of a similar weight, you can expect a similar effect. If you use something heavier, the effect will be a bit stiffer.

Materials: 2-2.5 yards of fabric (or more), depending upon the lengths of your layers—we’ll do a wee bit of math down below; thread to match; basic sewing stuffs. If you don’t want to make the drawstring yourself, you’ll need enough of a matching (washable) cord or ribbon to comfortably go around your waist and tie.

What to Do

1. First, draft your pattern. (I promise, this takes way less time to do than it takes to explain it.) I used the guidelines in Sew What! Skirts. Take your hip measurement at the widest point, add 1” for ease and 2” for seam allowance. Then divide by 4, because we’re only drawing out one quarter of the skirt—you’ll place the straight edge (on the left in my photo) against the fold line. (Fold your fabric selvage to selvage and cut so the grain travels from waist to hem.)

drafting

When you cut, you’ll be cutting out the entire front (or back) at once. Decide how long you want your skirt to be, as well as how wide at the bottom. I had two yards of fabric and used it all—my bottom layer measured 19” and my top layer 17”. Since we’re cutting out two of each piece, that adds up to 72” (2 yards) exactly. I made my top layer two inches shorter than the bottom, but play with that however you like. Just remember to make sure you have enough fabric for what you want to do. You also need a hem allowance (1/2”) and a seam allowance (1/2”), so add a full inch to your desired finished skirt length—on both layers.

So, to draft: Make a dot on the edge of your paper, near the top. Placing your ruler perpendicular to the straight edge of your paper, measure out equal to your (hip measurement + 1 inch + 2 inches) divided by 4. For me, this is 9.75. Mark that point. If you want a curved waist, make another dot 1/2-1 inch above this mark. I went with a straight waistline, but really, I’m not so curvy. Up to you. Draw a gently curved line from your first dot to the higher dot—or just make a straight line. Either way, that’s your waist.

Measure the length of the longer layer down the straight edge of the paper. Draw an angled line from the other end of the waist to the hem. Think about how much flare you want on your skirt, and this may depend on the width of your fabric, too. My bottom edge measures 15 1/2″ on the pattern (so 62″ total). Gently curve the hem line. (To do this, I used a curved waist and then measured my skirt length down from the waistline at several points. Then I connected the dots. Then I erased the curved waist and went with the straight one instead.) Make a line on your pattern to indicate where the top layer will be—just measure the difference up from your hem, and connect the dots so it’s also curved. In my picture below, you can see that after I cut the first pieces out, I just cut on my line to get my shorter pattern.

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2. Cut out your pieces. Place on the fold line and cut two of each layer. It doesn’t matter if your fabric is right side out or in, as long as you’re consistent.

3. Sew your side seams, waistline to hem, for both layers. Because I used voile, I decided to use French seams so that my raw edges were encased. I felt that zigzagging the edges on such a thin material would be a bad choice. French seams are easy! Instructions are included in this Sew, Mama, Sew! post on seam finishes.

4. Hem each layer. If you are on friendly terms with your rolled hem foot, that would be perfect for a lightweight material. Otherwise, fold up a narrow hem. I ironed up 1/4” and then another 1/4”, then stitched.

5. Now it’s time to sew the layers together. Give them a press and lay them in front of you side by side, right sides out. Now, take the shorter skirt—the one that will be on top—and put it INSIDE the longer skirt—the one that will be on the bottom.

sewing together

Line up the side seams and pin around the top. You should be looking at the right side of the bottom layer. If you peek inside, you’ll see the wrong side of the top layer. If you think about this too much, your head will hurt. But trust me. Now sew around the top with a ½” seam allowance. Press your seam. Flip your skirts. Ta-da! Your top layer is right where it should be, right sides out.

6. Leave the skirt for a bit to make your drawstring. I wanted to keep it simple for myself, so I just cut a strip the entire length of my fabric—72”. I wanted a narrowish drawstring, so I cut my strip 1 1/4” wide. Make it the same way you’d make binding tape (Wendi Gratz has a nice tutorial here)—iron it in half, open it up, iron each side in to the fold, then iron in half again, folding in the raw edges at each end. Then, sew straight down, close to your open edge (where you actually  have two folds showing). The final drawstring was about 1/3” wide.

7. Now decide which side is the front of your skirt. Find the center and mark it. Measure 1 1/2” from each side and mark that—those are the buttonhole placements. Make sure the measurement is the same from each mark to each side seam, just to be sure. Mark about 1 1/4” down from the top edge (give or take; whatever makes you happy)—that’s where you’ll sew to finish the casing. Center an approximately 1/2-3/4” vertical line—so, about 1/4” from the top and the same from the casing line—at each mark. Those are your buttonhole marks. The length of your buttonhole may vary depending upon your drawstring. (This is why you make your drawstring first, so you can test it against your buttonhole length and make sure it will fit.)

buttonholes

8. If you’re using a lightweight material, cut some muslin to back your buttonholes. (It won’t hurt to have backing even on a heavier weight cotton, is what I think.) I used a one-inch square of muslin behind each buttonhole. Pin it in place and then, using sharp scissors, make a small snip through both fabrics. Carefully cut along the line. REMEMBER: The buttonhole is only through the top layer of the skirt.

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9. (You can, of course, do the buttonholes on your machine. If so, skip ahead to step 10.) I used the same thread I’d used in the machine, doubled. I had a really hard time with it until I ran it along a piece of beeswax (undyed, from a candle). It was so much easier after that!! You’re going to work your muslin and skirt fabric together as if they’re one. Bring the thread in from behind—go ahead and knot it, nobody is going to see the back because it will be hidden inside the casing. You want to be neat but you don’t need to stress. Make a couple stitches along the top of the buttonhole. I’m using contrasting thread in this example just so you can see.

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Now begin your buttonhole stitch down the right-hand side. You’ll be looping the thread around the raw edge of both materials. If there are some muslin strings coming loose, gently pull them out. (I was much neater with the real buttonhole than I was with this example.) Go carefully and slowly and keep your stitches close together, to cover the fabric. When you get to the bottom, stitch across the bottom a couple of times, then flip it around so you’re working down the other edge.

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Finish it all up. You can trim the muslin closer on the back, if you want. Make the other buttonhole. See, the ones I made on my skirt are much neater!

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10. Now that you’re done with the buttonholes, you can close the casing. Sew 1 1/4” (or whatever you decided) down from the hem line, all around, from the right side. You don’t need to leave an opening, since you have the buttonholes.

11. Pin a safety pin to the end of your drawstring. Feed it into one buttonhole, all the way around, and out the other. I knotted my drawstring at the very ends.

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There you go. You’re done! Happy summer!!

Field Trip: deCordova Sculpture Park and Museum

I’ve been wanting to visit the deCordova for a while now, and it’s on our summer list. (As a bonus, it’s free on summer weekdays, so if you’re anywhere in the area, now’s the time to visit!) This was my first visit, too, so all of us were exploring together. No photos were allowed inside, so you’ll have to imagine… we began on the third floor (because that’s where the bathrooms are!), so the first exhibit we saw was Ursula von Rydingsvard’s sculptures inside the museum. After we looked at them and talked a bit about them (some of them included cow intestines! except the intestines looked completely different in the two pieces–we figured it was the inside vs. the outside) the kids asked for their sketchbooks. We were the only ones in the gallery at the time, and we sat down on the floor, the kids looked at the sculptures, and drew. I really wish I could have taken a picture of them.

We visited all three main exhibits inside the museum. The focus is on contemporary art; I was disappointed that items from the permanent collection weren’t on display. One exhibit, Wall Works, had works inspired by items from the permanent collection, which were on display alongside. What a great opportunity to see how art and artists continue to inspire and inform each other.

The third exhibit inside is works by Andy Goldsworthy. He is best known, I think, for his land art. The museum is raising money to support Goldsworthy’s permanent installation “Snow House” in the sculpture park. The indoor exhibit included mainly photographs of his work with snow, as well as two works on paper that consisted of allowing large “urban, gritty” snowballs to melt on the paper, and then allowing the paper to dry. I predict that we’ll be experimenting with our own snowball art next winter!

The sculpture park is just fantastic. It’s such a wonderful thing to have a big open outside space when visiting museums with young children. We got to spread out a blanket and have a picnic lunch; the kids climbed a big rock for a while; we walked along a path outside with views of Flint’s Pond; and of course, we wandered around looking at sculpture.

This is Rain Gates. It’s sculpture you can walk around in:

Ozymandias dominates the front part of the park.

The kids took out their sketchbooks again. I’d also grabbed our traveling art box from the car.

Ursula von Rydingsvard also has a sculpture in the park, ence pence:

I liked this one, Apollo by Albert Paley, mainly because of the materials. It’s made of stainless steel and weathering steel, and N and I talked about how that means when the sculpture was first made, it would have looked different; it was meant for time and the elements to change it and weather it. We felt it to see how the steels were different in texture as well as in color.

And G likes trains, so this Mass Art Vehicle on tracks was right up her alley.

The deCordova website has a page devoted to visiting their museum with children. They also provide family activity kits that can be borrowed–some for outside, some for inside. We didn’t end up using any, because all the materials except the paper needed to be returned anyway (and we had plenty of paper), because we’re fairly good at talking about art by this point, and because I didn’t know if the clay/dough included in the kit was gluten-safe and, unfortunately, I have to consider that sort of thing. But it’s nice to know these resources are available, and the guards never once looked idgety about my children being in the galleries or drawing in sketchbooks. This museum is doing really well with making sure families and children feel welcome.

We weren’t able to see everything in the sculpture park–it’s so big! Which is just an excuse to go back again soon.

Summertime Art on Kidoinfo

Now that it’s finally summer, I want to be outside as much as possible, as long as the weather cooperates. Although I have a list of rainy-day art activities in mind, and although our outside adventures aren’t necessarily art-focused (beach! nature walks! day trips!), I do have some ideas on how to take art outside during the season most suited for it. They fall into two general categories: bringing messy activities outside, and activities that depend upon being outside.

Read the full article on Kidoinfo.

Review: Create With Me

When I saw that Stampington & Company had a new magazine, Create With Me, dedicated to “Artistic Adventures with Children,” I was pretty eager to get my hands on a copy. (I bought it myself, at Joann’s; all opinions are solely my own and influenced by nobody.) Most of what I do, especially with my older children, is either an artistic collaboration or creating right alongside them. It’s one of my goals, right there in the About page. While the Internet and even bookstores are full of creative ideas geared towards toddlers and preschoolers, I’m not always successful in finding examples of process-oriented (or at least open-ended) art for older children, so I was excited at the idea of a magazine that included kids of all ages and was not craft-oriented. And I’m happy to say that this magazine delivers what I’d hoped: inspiration and ideas that I can use with all of my kids.

This first issue draws on some successful bloggers, such as Maya Donenfeld of Maya*Made and Jennifer Casa from JCasa*handmade. There are some articles on how to be creative with children and how to be creative when you have children (definitely a delicate balance—part of my solution was to decide I was going to create alongside my children and put my own projects on backburner, sometimes for years at a time). And then there are the projects, which go all the way up to high school age and run the gamut from crafty (paper dolls, fabric wings) with a child-executed component, to collaboration, to completely child-executed process-oriented art—and my favorite here is definitely  the abstract textured painting done by author Danielle Henriksen’s son Liam. She writes, “This project is an example of a painting that is fun, process oriented, and always has a unique outcome. We love projects like this that allow for freedom of expression.” YES! And, she introduced me to acrylic molding paste, and I can’t wait to get some for my kids (and myself!) to experiment with.

I can’t quite tell if the magazine is lacking an editorial focus, or if the focus is to be all-inclusive, mainly because of the disparity in advice given in the various articles. For instance, the “words of wisdom” in one article includes, “Be sure to let the child you are crafting with help you gather everything. Part of the fun is helping choose colors, stamps, and objects.” The very next article advises the parent to get everything out and ready ahead of time. That same article states that “often, young kids want to run on ahead and get their artwork done as fast as possible; they are happy to slop something together and call it good.” I find this to be a pessimistic view of children and their artwork, especially as the article in question isn’t presenting a project for what I’d consider a young child—say, five or under. It looks far more in depth, more suitable for an elementary-age child, and I’ve never seen my own children “slop something together” (oh, that word slop, it’s so insulting) and rush off, but perhaps that’s because they are given latitude to choose their materials and their project and they’re invested from the start. In fact, when N was working on his Collaboration entry—which eventually won first place overall–he refined his ideas and process over three pieces before he was satisfied. The ideas, execution, and desire to participate were all his own, as I feel it should have been.

That was the only article that I felt really advocated for the parent taking total control of the studio setting, and that’s certainly one point of view…which is more or less my point: there doesn’t seem to be one cohesive viewpoint throughout the magazine, so as with any other child-related advice, follow the “words of wisdom” that speak to you. I, clearly, fall more in line with the process-oriented folks who give their kids choices; I have an obvious bias. (It’s also helpful to know your reviewer’s biases, don’t you think?)

Oh, and I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Kristen Robinson’s instructions for creating various art kits for gift-giving. They’re wonderful; I’d like one of each for myself, please. (You can see a picture of them in the main link to the magazine above.)

I found many ideas for things I’d like to share with my children here, including some materials completely new to me, and I found some blogs I’d like to start reading. Fifteen dollars well spent, if I come away feeling inspired.

How about you–will you be getting a copy? If you already have one, what projects are inspiring to you?

Making Prints While The Sun Shines: T-Shirts

As always, click to embiggen all photos!

Materials: White t-shirts (the kids’ shirts are white undershirts–they’re great for dyeing); liquid acrylics; sponge brushes; leaves or other objects of your choice; sunny (but not windy) day; optional but helpful: a piece of Plexiglas to place inside the shirt, unless you don’t mind the paint seeping through to the back

I read lots of art/craft blogs, because the Internet is filled with great ideas, and often I find ideas on non-kid blogs that I can use with my children. One such ideas is sun-printing on fabric, which I first saw on Mary and Patch. I was surprised to see that it didn’t require any special sun-reactive paint, so I decided we’d give it a try. We actually gave it two tries, and as I go I’ll share what we learned during our first, semi-successful attempt.

First, I wanted something firm under the shirts, so I slipped some Plexiglas into mine and my oldest son’s shirt, a piece of glass into my younger son’s, and the box part of a box frame into my toddler’s. We learned the first time that using cardboard will leave the texture of the cardboard on the shirt, so either put something smooth in there (like a file folder, if you don’t have Plexiglas) or accept that the paint will soak through–which isn’t a bad look either.

Next, spray the shirt with water to dampen it. This photo is from our first try; the second go-round we just moved the entire operation to the deck. I have one of our watercolor painting boards inside the shirt, which is another option.

I watered down our liquid acrylics, but I wasn’t exact about it. Liquid acrylics are the paints that you can find in craft stores in the little bottles, about $1 per bottle (for the big size!). They come in all sorts of colors, they don’t wash out, and we’ve used them successfully for printing and painting on shirts for years. So, squirt some paint into a jar, add some water, mix it up, and cover your shirt. We learned that if you want to mix colors, do it around the edges–if you overlap colors where you try to make the print, the print sort of gets lost.

Paint quickly! Spray some more if you have to, because you don’t want the paint to dry yet. Place your leaves and put the whole thing in the sun.

I sprayed our leaves with a bit more water to hold them in place, and then I thought later that we could have weighted them with small rocks. We learned it’s best to use full leaves. Ferns make really pretty sun paper prints, but they didn’t work so well on the shirts. Our shirts dried in an hour or less.

V’s shirt, which was mostly blue, didn’t show the prints much, so we decided to try overprinting. We could see some prints in the center, so he left those alone and added green around the edges. He followed the same procedure: he sprayed with water, painted, and then lay down the leaves.

It worked! Overprinting was successful:

Once the shirts were dry, I rinsed them out and washed and dried them like I would any laundry, in cold water. I’d do this first wash with something you don’t care about too much (like towels), but when I rinsed, the paint stayed put. From this point on I’ll wash them with the regular laundry with no worries.

N’s shirt came out really well. His was the only shirt from our first try that came out really well, too. His is on the left, and G’s is on the right. You can see her prints in person, but faintly. For some reason, blue paint didn’t make the best prints.

Although mine was blue, and it worked okay. One leaf blew over halfway through, so I’ve got a mutant leaf print on the lower left there!

For our first attempt, we used textile ink–specifically, Speedball screen printing inks, because we plan to print on t-shirts at some point too, so I bought some. It really didn’t work for this project. I’m not sure why I was seduced by the special textile paint when we’ve been using liquid acrylics for painting shirts for years and liquid acrylics don’t require me to heat set the shirt by ironing 3-5 minutes per side times four shirts–that’s a lot of ironing on a hot day!

Luckily, applying the paint with a brush created a sort of tie-dye effect, so even though the sun-printing didn’t work the first time, as V said, “It’s a nice red and blue shirt, anyway.” And N, especially, was interested in what we were figuring out as we went through the process–what colors worked best, what sort of leaves, what to try next. Because we generally approach art in a spirit of discovery, the kids weren’t terribly disappointed that it didn’t work the first time. We simply tried again, refining our process a bit until we got it right!

Making Prints While The Sun Shines: Paper

Materials: Sun print paper, various items, Plexiglas (optional)

The other day, G and I experimented with the sun print paper that recently arrived. (I couldn’t find it locally, so I ended up ordering some.)

Buttons, maple leaves, fern

It’s really simple to use, and reminds me of my first darkroom assignment, aimed at getting us used to using the enlarger: we scattered various items across some photographic paper, exposed it in the darkroom, and then developed it. This works the same way. Inside, we arranged some items on the paper, blue side up. Because our items were flat, I sandwiched the paper between two pieces of Plexiglas before bringing it all outside. The sun was so strong that the paper paled within a minute or so, and then we dunked it in water to stop the reaction and “develop” it.

(I found the Plexiglas in a box of old darkroom supplies when I went looking for the piece of glass I used to use for contact sheets. I thought the glass would be handy for this, and ended up finding the four sheets of Plexiglas I used to use to cover the trays of chemicals. I cleaned them all off and have been finding uses for them ever since!)

Today, we got the boys involved. These are N’s papers:

Pattern blocks, Lego pieces, Hero Factory pieces

These are mine (the skate egg cases) and G’s:

Play pasta, pattern blocks, mermaid's purses (skate egg cases)

These are V’s and more of G’s:

Look closely--Lego figures!

The Plexiglas came in really handy–we arranged our items on the paper, which was on the Plexiglas, in the hallway inside, which, if all the doors are closed, doesn’t get much natural light. Then I was able to carry the Plexiglas outside without disturbing anything. We did this in the morning, and you might be able to see that shadows were cast. That made for some interesting prints, because the shadows also show up, but lighter. (Click to embiggen the photos a bit.)

V's prints on left; N's on right

N really liked how the sun shone through his Hero Factory pieces a bit, so those images weren’t as sharp. I love the Lego figure print on the bottom left.

G's (mostly) & mine

G was so deliberate in placing the pieces. The boys were, too, but G really took quite a while in arranging her blocks, pasta, and buttons. We like how she put one of N’s Hero Factory pieces half off the paper in the top left print up above there.

Remember my mermaid’s purse print? I didn’t realize I had two pieces of paper stuck together. (Note: Make sure your hands are completely dry from rinsing the last batch before you grab more paper!) We ended up with a ghost print, as N identified it–and although the term “ghost print” comes from monotype printing I’d say he used it correctly here:

Pretty cool and completely unexpected result! And also–phew, the sun beats on our deck pretty strongly in July!

As you might be able to tell by the title, we experimented with other forms of sun printing as well…more to come, as long as the sun keeps shining!

Field Trip: Open Artist Studio

I saw in our local paper that a mill that now is home to many artist studios would be having Open Studio afternoons throughout the summer, so I thought I’d take the kids to see some artists at work.

Do you see the fish down by the baseboard, pointing the way? It’s made from reclaimed fence posts. That small studio, down at the end of a maze-like hallway, was crowded but exciting. Fence posts were strewn about the floor, there were large cutouts of seahorses, and the studio’s owner was “playing around” (her words) with mussel shells, a glue gun, and cardboard taped into a cone shape–she was making a Christmas tree. (“We have all those supplies,” I pointed out to the kids.) N noticed a painted piece peeking out from behind some other stuff leaning against a wall and wanted to know what kind of paint was used; he didn’t recognize it. It was spray paint. I told him in a couple of years I’d set him up with some.

Through that door we found a delightful painter who began to paint once he retired. He told me he’d always wanted to paint, but he’d never found the time, and also that he’s self-taught. His paintings were colorful and eye-catching and interesting for the kids to look at, and he was just as engaging as his work. He asked the kids if they were artists, too, and answered any questions they had.

The very first studio we entered belonged to glass-blowers. Between the broken glass on the floor, the hot ovens, and the numerous beautiful glass objects, I thought it best to hold G, so I didn’t get any pictures. But he gave us a tour and explained the process, including opening the 2500-degree oven just a crack to let the kids see how hot it has to be to melt glass. They were filling fall and holiday orders, or starting to–we passed lots of pumpkins and Christmas trees waiting to be shipped out. They also made long tubes of multi-colored glass, and around the corner, a bead-maker sliced them up and turned them into glass beads.

I won’t lie, parts of this adventure were very challenging. G didn’t want to hold my hand or stay with me; she wanted to touch all the pretty things she saw and run down the long mill hallways. The day we visited was only the second Open Studio of the summer, and it seemed clear that some people were surprised to actually see people, never mind children. There wasn’t really a contact number to call first to see if this was appropriate for children, and I suspect the answer, anyway, would be “it depends.” It really depends on the artist and the studio.

The instructor who teaches mostly middle school and high school kids was more than happy to see my kids, talking to them about the completely random things he had strewn about his studio (for drawing practice, I’m guessing). The studio where my oldest (who should know to keep his hands to himself) accidentally set off a staple gun, nearly giving me a heart attack–not so much for the children, clearly. And some were simply in between. I found the jeweler who learned his craft in his native Finland and does everything by hand to be fascinating, and while V looked sort of bored, I think he was pleased to discover, when he asked, that yes indeed, you can get jewelry made out of titanium.

Also, many studios weren’t open, because the artists weren’t there. But it was worth it to walk the hallways to the end anyway, because we got to see not only artwork hanging on the walls, but murals like this.

I think, all in all, I’d perhaps take another adult with me next time. But it was worthwhile to get a look at what a “real” artist’s studio looks like (in many cases, not so different from our room downstairs, but with better light and, sometimes, a coffee machine right nearby instead of upstairs) and observe that many of them use materials we use, too.

I want to demystify “artist” for my kids–I do think they consider themselves artists, and I don’t want that feeling to disappear as they grow older. There’s not this huge, staggering difference between the people making art in those studios and us making art over here, because we are all making art, and that’s the main thing.